为什么你养不活某些珊瑚--珊瑚缸里的适者生存，原文翻译，来源reefbuilders

mynameismo

Survival of the Fittest of Aquarium Corals
October 17 2015, Michael Paletta –
珊瑚缸里的适者生存，作者Michael Paletta
原文出处：
https://reefbuilders.com/2015/10 ... st-aquarium-corals/




译者导语：想想我们是否时常听到或挂在嘴边以下的几句话：
1. 我的数据都正常为什么某些生物还是状态不好
2.我的A珊瑚、B珊瑚、C珊瑚、还有D、E、FG珊瑚状态都很好，为什么X珊瑚却不行。
3. 这颗珊瑚在我朋友的缸里状态很好，为什么在我的缸里状态却不好。
如果你也有以上疑问，这篇文章能给你一些启发。--可能是我们早已知晓的道理，只是我们不愿意去相信。

希望大家在后面留言，养死过什么珊瑚，知道原因或大致原因是怎么死的，共同讨论进步。

套用达尔文大约150年前的话，适者生存是自然选择的过程，能让生命有最大的可能产生成功的复制品。但是你会问，这跟养好珊瑚缸有什么关系。
（了解“人工选择”有什么用？）这样做的好处之一是，随着时间的推移，你与很多不同的人讨论这方面的问题。我很幸运有很多这样的讨论。其中包括Richard Ross, Sanjay Joshi, Joe Yaiullo and Mitch Carl（译者注：某些大牛）。我们讨论的重点是，“选择性地繁殖”缸里最适合的珊瑚。也就是说，是否要养好珊瑚缸就应该人为地选择“最适珊瑚”？

一个选择性繁殖缸要允许有大量的断枝，可能会出现这样的情况：一些长得很好，一些状态不佳

不用说，这是一次热烈的讨论，因为有一段时间以来我一直在思考，有些珊瑚在缸里长得很好，一些则不然。但是，直到这些讨论前，我从来没有真正的在以“（人工）选择”的眼光去看待它。
我不是在谈论那些被认为是很难养稀有珊瑚，但实际上有些珊瑚在我朋友的缸里长得很好，但在我的缸里却不行。我花了很多的时间在思考为什么珊瑚会长得好，我在我的一些缸里做了不少试验，也有机会看到其他人的缸。我开始尝试理解“选择”的概念，希望它会让我成为一个更好的珊瑚玩家。
引起我思考的原因是hydnophora，一种常见的石珊瑚。虽然有不同几个属的品种，对我来说这并不重要，因为他们在我的SPS缸里都变成白骨。我试过野生的断枝，还有朋友缸里的断枝。他们的断枝已长成餐盘大小了。但这并不重要，在我缸里下场都一样。

Hydnophora角珊瑚是一种皮实，很容易养的SPS

我把一些Hydnophora角珊瑚养在我的缸里，这些珊瑚在许多不同的缸里都已经养了超过十年，但他们都没有在我的缸里存活超过一周的时间。我需要申明，这些缸里的其他类型的SPS和LPS珊瑚都长得很好。。我已经尝试了多种方法，把它们放在不同的地方，不同的灯光下，以及不同的水流下。但无济于事，不管出于何种原因，我的缸就是养不了hydnophora。
这些失败的经历引发了我的思考，并和鱼友们讨论这个问题。我们一般不会问对方：什么被养死了，什么白化了之类的。我们喜欢研究成功案例，但我们很少谈论什么失败了或什么被我们杀死了，甚至是状态稍差点的情况我们都不想谈。我想介绍一个从来没有珊瑚挂掉或死鱼的缸，但这是说谎。更重要的是，我意识到，我们不仅从我们的成功中学习，我们也从我们的失败中吸取教训，并可能学到更多。
所以，这些失败案例可能会让我学到一些东西，也能让别的鱼友受益。我知道有一些人会不同意我，我当然乐于听取你的观点，但这些结果都来源于我们的真实观察。所以我只是在描述我的发现，而且确实是有别人理解并赞同我的发现我才会到这里详说。

除了盐度和温度，KH是一个健康的珊瑚缸的最重要的水参数之一，
我们都知道，怎么养好珊瑚是有争议的，没有完美的方式。如果真有，我们都会用相同的“完美”方式去养。KH值就是这种情况，有大量围绕“多少KH更好”的争论：高KH（大于10dkh）或低KH（在7-10dkh）[作者注：天然海水的KH，7dkh ，所以7-10dkh其实是大于自然正常值]。
Hylkema， wijgerde和Osinga最近联合发表的一篇文章中写到，高KH和低KH都是正确的或都是错误的，并且还要看营养盐的水平。也就是说，当营养盐水平低时，较低的KH更好，但是当营养盐水平增加会导致钙化过程减弱，除非碳酸氢根（HCO3）浓度也相应增加了。因此，为了最大限度地提高钙化，营养盐水平和碳酸氢根浓度需要相互平衡。（译者注，KH是衡量碳酸氢根（HCO3ˉ）浓度的指标。营养盐水平指铵氮浓度，包括但不限于NO３ˉ浓度等）
在这个平衡下，大多数珊瑚能活得很好，但是经过大量交流，我们发现，一些珊瑚能耐高KH, 另一些则耐低KH，此时营养水平都是正常的。我们发现，如果让KH到13dkh，Hawkins Echinata [其实anacropora turaki ]，红龙珊瑚Red Dragon与其他Dragon Acros以及A turaki和A. echinatas都会白化，在15dkh时会全部烧掉。

在中心处的Hawkins Echinata不能耐受高KH，整个株体在高KH条件死翘翘。

当然，我知道这些都不是正常的KH值水平，而是高KH的事故。不用说，没有人试图让我们的保持高KH，但由于各种设备故障，我们都曾一次或多次经历了这些状态。我们还发现，在这些情况下chalice corals从它们的骨骼开始化，即使KH又降回来了。

这株珊瑚在高KH条件下一个星期后似乎要开始化掉

因此，我们发现，在这些极端情况下，我们人为地选择了可以耐受高KH的珊瑚。有些珊瑚似乎可以耐高KH，包括A humilis, A. monticulosa, A. globiceps and A. gemmifera, as well as Poritesand Pocilloporas。
当这些珊瑚在低KH（KH＝９）的缸里待一个星期以上，如果KH不增加它们的底部就开始完全白化，并要花数月的时间恢复，即使KH又调高了。因此，我们现在知道，我们可以筛选出哪些珊瑚对KH敏感哪些则不然。

Acropora globiceps是一种很皮实的耐高KH的珊瑚
同样地，我们要考虑光的差异，比如光照模式可以决定珊瑚的生长和死亡。早期的流行说法是，养SPS需要尽可能多的光。而现在，我们已经养了不同品种的SPS，放置在不同位置不同深度（译者注：意思是也不是都需要强光），所以情况有改变。。

随着LED出现，对LED的适应性会决定珊瑚是否状态良好，不好不坏，或干脆挂掉。其中，我们发现了，鹿角珊瑚的milepora族（Acropora in the millepora group）在LED下没有在金卤灯下活得好。
在我们所有的缸里，他们都活了下来，但与过去的金卤灯情况不同，他们并没有显示出爆炸性增长。在我们所有的缸里，他们在的生长速度约为过去10%，而有些碎片过了一年也没怎么长。在过去，我们缸里的Acro milleporas 或是prostrates一年后就会疯长到压倒他们的邻居。

Millipora在金卤灯下从碎片长到这样，但珊瑚在LED下没有显示同样的快速增长

如果LED太亮，montiporas也会受到不利影响。养montiporas珊瑚的秘诀是温和的光，中等的水流。由于LED的强穿透力，有时需要数月时间让珊瑚适应强光以免白化。
在我还没有意识过来怎么回事，有些新入缸的montipora在我缸里就挂了，而它旁边的其它montipora却长得很好。我才醒悟，明亮的LED筛选出了能较快适应LED的个体。
“人为地选择”的另一个表现就是我们养的的共生居民。我指的是鱼和其他无脊椎动物。虽然我也热衷一个充满活力的珊瑚缸--满是鱼和珊瑚。但事实情况是，鱼是一种美丽的痛苦，如果我没有喂足够的饲料或正确喂食，可能在某一瞬间，鱼就开始吃缸里的珊瑚。
在我意识到鱼对珊瑚的选择作用之前，我交了昂贵的学费。显而易见，我进鱼的过程就是在做人工选择。我承认我犯了一个巨大的错误，那是在14年前，我添了一只Red Sea Regal angel在SPS缸里。

作者曾经的“榔头花园”由于Moorish Idol 和 Regal Angel被搞掉了

虽然这个缸最初的5年是专养SPS的，但后来我也试着加了些榔头属（Euphyllia）的珊瑚。起初一切都很好，但是一旦他（Regal Angel）喜欢上了LPS，他啃平了我的“榔头花园”。可悲的是，由于他还很长寿，我现在放弃了新添榔头给他们做“鱼粮”的计划。

认识到人为的选择对于养好珊瑚缸是有帮助的，因为我们持续提高我们的饲养功力并得以享受养珊瑚这个爱好。比如说，甚至在早于10年前，我们意识到，石珊瑚（带骨骼LPS）与软珊瑚（不带骨骼）混养时不如在单养石珊瑚缸中活得好。

当然，有很多其它因素会对珊瑚有选择性。了解这些因素及其作用对象，即不单单关注什么活下来了而是记住什么挂掉了，这样有助于提高饲养的功力并具体知道某一类珊瑚的需求。我试着给我的缸进行定期记录，无论是好的或坏的情况。但是我必须承认，尽管这样我还是不知道为什么我就是养不活hydnophora。

进鱼时得仔细，否则他们就会选择掉缸里的一些珊瑚




译者后记：
回到最开始的问题。如果一缸东西都养不活，那确实是你的问题。如果某些生物状态好，有些状态不佳，某些生物在别人缸里养得好在你这却不行，这些可能都不是你的错。俗话说，“你不可能取悦所有人”，对珊瑚可能也是适用的。当然如果你能“取悦”所有的珊瑚，说明你的饲养功力真的很高。但对一般人来说，这是一种爱好，没有必要太较真。
补充说说关于LED的。文章发表于2015年，但主要数据和例证都是早于4、5年前甚至10年前的，现在LED的发展已经不能用年来衡量了，可以说每月甚至每周都有新突破，这是其一。再者，文中针对的对象主要是SPS，认为SPS在LED下没有在金卤下生长快。其实我也觉得纯硬骨缸用金卤或T5是比较合适的，因为LED的一个强项是色彩表现，SPS本身颜色就很好看，不需要LED锦上添花。但这些灯尤其是金卤灯用来养软体几乎没法看，T5要想配出理想的光效也没这么容易（澳洲、印尼货在金卤、T5白光下还是挺艳丽的，当然放到LED蓝光下就美得窒息了）。只是针对文中关于Led部分谈谈想法，不涉及金卤、T5、LED孰优孰劣的讨论。
另外，珊瑚分门别类化饲养还没有流行起来，大家在市面上能买到的认为好看的都往缸里扔（包括我自己也是这样），其实这是不利于珊瑚生长的，在某种意义上也是不美的---因为大自然里不会出现这种情况。现在流行的还是一种杂乱美，但谁叫珊瑚这么美呢，摆得难看点也无妨。

mynameismo

附原文：

Survival of the Fittest of Aquarium Corals


October 17 2015, Michael Paletta –
To paraphrase what Charles Darwin wrote approximately 150 years ago, survival of the fittest is the process of natural selection that allows living things to have the greatest likelihood for producing successful copies of itself in the future.  So I’m guessing you are wondering right now, what this has to do with successful reefkeeping.

One of the benefits of doing this for a while is that over time you get to sit down with a lot of different individuals, share adult beverages and talk about just everything hobby related and otherwise. I have been fortunate in this regard in that I have had many such discussions. One of which included Richard Ross, Sanjay Joshi, Joe Yaiullo and Mitch Carl. The discussion focused on are we, for lack of a better term, “selectively breeding” the best corals for our tanks. That is, is the act of keeping a reef tank successfully artificially selecting for the corals most likely to do well in that tank?

A tank "selectively" grown by placing lots of frags in the tank and allowing it to grow with some obviously thriving and some failing

A tank “selectively” grown by placing lots of frags in the tank and allowing it to grow with some obviously thriving and some failing
Needless to say this was a lively discussion, and I have been thinking about it for quite some time ever since. We have known for as long as we have been keeping corals that there are some corals that simply do not do well in some tanks and some that fail to thrive, while others thrive spectacularly. But up until this discussion and several later discussions with others I had never really looked at it in the context of selection.

I am not talking about rare corals or corals that were known to be difficult to keep, but actually corals that did well in my friend’s tanks, but in my tanks nothing.  Also with how much experimenting I do in some of my tanks as well as the opportunities that I have had to see other’s tanks why some corals thrive has always been on my mind. I have begun to try to look at this concept and understand it better with the hope that it would make me a better hobbyist.

The coral that got me to think of this were the common stony corals of the genus Hydnophora. While there are several species of this coral in the genus, in my case it doesn’t really matter as they all are skeletons soon after I have placed them in any of my sps dominated tanks. I have tried wild colonies, aquacultured colonies and frags from friend’s tanks where their frags had grown into dinner plate sized colonies. It did not matter and the process was the same for each.

Hydnophora 'Horn Coral' is a hardy and very easy to keep SPS coral

Hydnophora ‘Horn Coral’ is a hardy and very easy to keep SPS coral
Within a week of placing them in one of my tanks, and this occurred in many different tanks over a decade, none of them has ever survived for more than a week. And I should note, that these are tanks where just about every other type of sps and lps corals have grown and thrived. I have done all the testing, placed them in different areas under different lights and with different flow and it has not mattered. So for whatever reason the conditions in my tanks select out Hydnophora.

These failures and the above noted discussion caused me to think and ask questions of my fellow hobbyists. This has resulted in my asking a question that we generally do not ask each other: what has died off, bleached or failed to thrive in your tank? We love to deal with our many successes, but rarely do we ever talk about what has failed or what we killed off and even less about what hasn’t really lived up to expectations and with that why this has occurred.  I would love to be able to write that I have never killed a coral or lost a fish, but that would be lying. More importantly I have come to realize that we do not only learn from our successes, we learn from our failures as well, and possibly more so.

As a result of these questions about failures to my fellow hobbyists I have been able to learn a few things that I think may be helpful to all of us. I know there will be some folks out there that will disagree with me and what may lead to problems, and I appreciate your input, but these results were what we found. So I am only describing my findings if I had four or more people I respect agree with what I found.

Nyos-Alkalinity

After salinity and temperature, testing alkalinity or carbonate hardness is one of the single most important water parameters for a healthy reef aquarium,
As we all know there is debate about everything in this hobby and how to do things and the reality is there is no perfect way. If there was we would all be doing things exactly that one same way. Alkalinity is one such aspect that still produces a lot of debate. The debate typically centers around which is better: high alkalinity (above 10dkh) or low alkalinity (between 7-10dkh) [ed. note: natural seawater has an alkalinity of 7dKH so 7-10dKH is normal to above natural values].

A recent paper by Hylkema, Wijgerde and Osinga showed that both high and low alkalinity values can be right or wrong and are more dependent on the nutrient levels than we realized. That is, when nutrient levels were low, the coral they studied did fine at a lower alkalinity level, however when nutrient levels were increased calcification was diminished unless the bicarbonate concentration was also increased. So in order to maximize calcification the nutrient and bicarbonate levels need to be balanced with each other.

For most of the corals we keep, maintaining this balance works fine, however after much conversation we concluded that some corals do better under high alkalinity and others at a lower alkalinity even when the nutrient levels are in balance. We found that Hawkins Echinata [actually an Acropora turaki], the Red Dragon and other Dragon Acros as well as A. turaki and the A. echinatas all tend to bleach and fail to thrive if we let our alkalinity levels get above 13dkh and they crashed and burned at 15dkh.

The Hawkins Echinata in the center did not tolerate high alkalinity and died back to nubs from a full colony when exposed to high alkalinity

The Hawkins Echinata in the center did not tolerate high alkalinity and died back to nubs from a full colony when exposed to high alkalinity
Yes I know these are not common alkalinity levels, but accidents in the form of high alkalinity do occur.  Needless to say, none of us tried to get our alkalinity levels that high, but due to various equipment malfunctions we all had experienced these levels at one point or another. We also found at these levels chalice corals began to melt away from their skeletons and that this continued even once the alkalinity levels were lowered.

Chalices like this one from World Wide Corals will seemingly melt when exposed to high alkalinity for longer than a week

Chalices like this one from World Wide Corals will seemingly melt when exposed to high alkalinity for longer than a week
So we found that at these levels we artificially selected for the corals that could handle high alkalinity. The corals that seemed to do best at a higher alkalinity included the bulkier stony corals in our tanks like A humilis, A. monticulosa, A. globiceps and A. gemmifera, as well as Porites and Pocilloporas.

When these corals were exposed to lower alkalinity in our tanks for a week or more, under 9, they started bleaching at their bases and would bleach out completely if the alkalinity was not increased and took months to recover once the alkalinity levels were increased if they recovered at all.  So as a result of this we now know that we can select out which corals will thrive or not based on our alkalinity levels.

Acropora globiceps is a sturdy acro that can handle higher alkalinity levels

Acropora globiceps is a sturdy acro that can handle higher alkalinity levels
Similarly, our discussions also led us to understand that differences in light and even the mode of lighting can determine which corals thrive and which fail. In the early days of keeping sps corals the theory was to blast everything with as much light as possible and it would thrive. Now that we are keeping a wider array of sps corals from multiple depths and locations this is no longer the case.

With the advent of high powered LEDs, and their more focused nature, proper acclimation to the light also now can significantly impact which corals survive, which just hang on, and which totally fail. One of the surprising things that we have found is that Acropora in the millepora group tend to fare less well under LEDs than they did under intense halides.

In all of our tanks they survived, but unlike in the past under halides, they do not show the explosive growth like they had. In all of our tanks they grew at about 10% of what their old growth rates were. Several frags that were frags a year ago still for the most don’t look much different. In the past in our tanks one year old Acro milleporas or prostrates would be overwhelming their neighbors with their considerable growth.

mynameismo

A colony of A millipora grown at Penn State from a frag in short time under metal halides, this coral does not show the same rapid growth under LEDs

A colony of A millipora grown at Penn State from a frag in short time under metal halides, this coral does not show the same rapid growth under LEDs
Montiporas also can be affected adversely when not acclimated properly when exposed to the bright lights of LEDs. The mantra with these corals has typically been moderate light, moderate current and they will do great. With LEDs’ light seemingly penetrating our tanks better than occurred with halides it is now necessary to get them accustomed to this light over months in order to diminish the likelihood of bleaching.

In my own experience before I realized what was occurring I lost a couple of colonies soon after placing them in the tank even though other Montiporas were thriving right next to them. I didn’t realize that the bright light of the LEDs would select out corals that did not acclimate to it quickly.

One other aspect of “ artificially selecting” out our corals that we often overlook is the inhabitants we choose to house with them. What I am talking about here are the fish and other invertebrates that we place with our corals and how they interact. While I love the look of a well-stocked tank full of fish and vibrant corals I have also come to the realization that fish are a pain and given the opportunity if I don’t feed enough or feed the right food any one of them can turn in an instant and start eating the corals in the tank.

As a result of understanding how artificial selection works I now focus on what fish and inverts I keep with my corals and what can happen in the worst case scenario. Needless to say I myself now employ more artificial selection when picking a fish to put with my corals. I will admit that I have made one huge mistake in adding a Red Sea Regal angel to my sps tank 14 years ago.

The authors "Euphyliia garden before is was selectively removed by the Moorish Idol and Regal Angel

The authors “Euphyliia garden before is was selectively removed by the Moorish Idol and Regal Angel
While the tank was exclusively sps for the first five years of his captivity I have since tried to add numerous Euphyllia corals to its tank. Initially all was well but once he developed a taste for them he quickly mowed down my Euphyllia garden. Sadly since with its longevity has come a strong affection I now forgo adding additional Euphyllias so that he will not consume them.

Understanding that artificial selection occurs constantly within our artificial reefs is helpful as we continue to improve our success and enjoyment of the hobby. It has been occurring for a long time especially when we consider that even 10 years ago we realized that in a tank heavily stocked with both soft and stony corals the stony corals did not do as well as they did when they were kept in a tank stocked mostly with other stony corals.

There are a lot of factors that I did not touch on that also undoubtedly have selective properties as well. Understanding what these might be and noting not only what has survived but what has died or failed to thrive will go a long way in bettering our understanding of what each specific coral requires. I try to keep a regular log of what goes on in my tank, both good and bad for this reason. However I must admit that despite doing this I still have no idea why I can’t keep Hydnophora alive.   

Fish for a tank need to be carefully chosen lest they select out which corals will thrive

Fish for a tank need to be carefully chosen lest they select out which corals will thrive

lili0908

学习了

A3V

原来如此啊

fqx128

有深度

mynameismo

死亡清单：泡泡菇， 原因：布朗果冻病，进了一个脱骨的尼罗河带来的。教训：脱骨的LPS容易感染布朗果冻病，有条件的隔离治疗，没条件的扔了比较好

愤怒的小鱼

学习了 学习了

ofro

真是好文章啊！

苍夔炎宿

有些事情  珊瑚这状态很难理解。。。就一个简单的红8字脑。。放到水质好的大缸 缩到近似脱骨。。。丢到水质差的小缸丫又肥得像头猪一样。。

ujffub

好

袁知县

尼玛，我就是这样

stonesss

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蛇我琦谁

大大的赞 养海水不能太固执 一缸生物由于对环境的需求不同 所表现出来的状态必然会不同 有时候顺其自然是最好的选择

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mynameismo

蛇我琦谁 发表于 2016-4-1 05:11
大大的赞  养海水不能太固执 一缸生物由于对环境的需求不同 所表现出来的状态必然会不同 有时候顺其自然是 ...

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杭州摄影师

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