学英语中，试翻一篇RC上waterkeeper写的养水文

corso

原文：
LET'S ROCK!!!!  

by waterkeeper

Actually, I meant to get to adding rock about two weeks ago. But once football season starts I lose track of time.

Crystal, I would let the sand storm abate before starting up your pumps. Circulation slows the settling and, as you mentioned, can damage the pumps.

It just so happens that Darren Walker, aka Palmetto, wrote a wonderful guide to LR about the same time I should have been writing mine. Since he put just about everything I was going to put in my post in his, I'll save myself some carpal tunnel and just give you the link.

Beginner's guide to Live Rock

One of the points Darren makes that I wish to stress is having enough water to dilute the noxious products of curing. I have found you can get fairly flat, plastic; containers that hold around 15-20 gallons for about $5 each at discounts stores. You can use them for stomping grapes after your done with the cycling.


If you get a few of these you can set up a nice curing line at a low price. Since your tank doesn't need heaters until you introduce LR you can use your tank heaters in the containers. The big ones will even allow you to place a skimmer in them. You can skim one tank each day during the cycle so don't go out and buy a skimmer for each vat.

Darren used actinic lighting but a better solution, if you wish to light the curing tanks, is a shop light fixture with daylight type florescent bulbs like the 6500K Optilume type bulbs. They are much cheaper and provide enough light for curing. You can use one light and move it from container to container. You only need about a 6 hour photoperiod at this point. Make sure you use a GFCI when hooking stuff up for safety sake.

Curing LR in your tank is OK but you are better off using separate curing containers as you get some pretty funky water during the cure.

Darren said you can use your nose to judge how the cure is going. Recently I gave Amanda from Michigan this advise on the proper fragrence one should have during curing--






A man wearing a black suit drives up in a hearse and asks if he can remove the deceased

You neighbors put up a sign in your yard saying "Bates Motel"

Your spouse, who wasn't into this saltwater thing in the first place, has their lawyer draw up divorce papers on the constitutional grounds of cruel and unusual punishment




You are going to want a test kit when you add the LR to your tank so you might as well spring for it now.

For those that cure the rock in their tanks, you will want to do some massive water changes. I know this is contrary to a lot of expert advise. My reasoning is that during the curing massive amounts of nutrients are added to the water column. There is plenty to go around to complete the cycle, so why keep this nasty water around? It will only come back to haunt you later as a huge algae bloom. Now dumping most of the water is not going to stop you from having an algae bloom but it will reduce the intensity and duration if you remove a large portion of the nutrients via a large water change(s).

A few days into the curing it is a very good time to show off your skills as a geeky chemist.  You want to check for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Hopefully the ammonia will be dropping or low and nitrates will be present. If not, just give it more time. Another thing you want to check, especially toward the end of the cycle, is pH and alkalinity. Don't be surprised if both are very low. Often the alkalinity will be only around 1 meq/l and the pH in the range of 7.5-7.8. Why? Well the curing process is acidic in nature. The bacteria produce lots of carbon dioxide and consume alkalinity. It is normal for both of these parameters to decline, often, dramatically.

Once again, water changes during the cycle will be a big help as they add fresh buffer with the introduction of fresh salt mix. You can also buy the various buffers sold on the market to adjust pH and alkalinity. A cheap substitute is washing soda, sodium carbonate, sold at the supermarket. Add 1 tablespoonful of washing soda for every 20 gallons of tank water to a quart of RO/DI water and dissolve. Pour this mixture into the sump or other high circulation area of the tank. Give it about 3 or 4 hours to react then check the pH again. If you still need to increase the pH you can add another dose. If you use a second dose wait a full day before making any more adjustments as the tank needs time to stabilize.

As Darren said, When you ammonia and nitrite are very close to zero you can add your LR to your tank. Don't worry if your nitrate levels are high. Nitrification is the hard part of going through a cycle. De-nitrification will be forthcoming as the LS in the tank starts to develop anoxic zones. The more time you can give the cycle the better off you'll be.

Well, I just heard the 2 minute warning ending this half. Next half will talk about the algae blitz that is the next fun part of the reefer game.



        首先我们需要大量的水体去稀释及处理养水过程中的有害物质。我发现可以买到一种容器，平底的、塑料的。每只可以装15-20加仑水，只要5块美金（我们用整理箱就最好了，比他这个还便宜点哈哈）。
好了假设你准备好容器了，你可以开始设置一套很好、很便宜的养水系统了。这时候你自己的缸多半还不需要加热棒（缸里又没东西。。），可以暂时把加热棒拿来给养水用。尽量搞个大的整理箱，可以把蛋分也放进去。你就可以在养水过程中使用本来的大蛋分了而不用特地为养水去买个小蛋分。
        另外最好能提供照明，可以去商店买色温为6500K的普通灯泡（florescent bulb 不知道是啥灯泡哦）,这些灯泡很便宜并能提供足够的照明。如果有好多容器一起养着，也可以这个照一天那个照一天哦，因为每天每个容器只需要6小时照明就可以了，记得要加漏电保护器哦。
        不用别的容器，在你自己的缸里对活石进行治疗也是可以的，但治疗过程很臭哦所以建议还是放别的地方治疗好。
        （另一篇文章的作者）说我们可以用鼻子闻味道来推断活石治疗的如何咯，对这种臭味我给读者的意见是：
一个穿着黑色衣服开着灵车的男人来问你是否需要搬运你房子里的尸体。。。
你的邻居在你后院写“bates motel” （这个我不懂。。）
你老婆要休了你。。（这句太长了懒得翻）
        现在我们需要一套测试液或工具哦因为我们要把活石放到缸里啦，你一定很高兴咯（这里乱翻的）
        给一开始是用鱼缸养石头的朋友，现在需要进行一次大换水啦。我知道这和一些专家的论点不同（专家不建议换水），我的理由是，在养石头的过程中大量的营养盐进入到水循环中。你想让它们（营养盐）随着你的水循环而继续存在吗？它们会带来大量的藻类。现在换掉大量水虽然不会减少藻类的生长，但至少会降低藻类爆发的程度并减少养水的时间。
        在治疗活石的这些日子里的确可以展现你的化学天赋哦，你会去检查阿摩尼亚、硝酸盐、亚硝酸盐。希望阿摩尼亚会降低到最低点而硝酸盐会开始出现。如果没有（硝酸盐出现），那就等一段时间。另一个你要注意的是PH及碱度（KH），如果经常性的KH是1 而PH是7.5-7.8，不要太惊讶，要知道治疗活石的过程是酸性的，细菌会产生碳酸并消耗掉碱性物质，所以PH和KH会持续下降，是很正常的。
再一次强调，通过使用新鲜调制的海水来换水对整个养水过程是非常有帮助的，你能购买到一些打折的PH或KH调整剂来调整这2个数值，一种便宜的替代品是洗涤苏打（我可不敢乱加）和碳酸钠，可以在超市买到。每20加仑加一汤勺洗涤苏打然后和RO水混合然后倒进底缸或别的流量很大的地方。等3，4小时然后检查PH，如果还要加高PH可以再加一次，但如果你想连续加2次，就要在第一次后等待一天，待缸里稳定后再加。（看来还是有风险。。我是不敢加）
        如同 darren（不知道是谁）所说，当你的阿摩尼亚和亚硝酸盐都达到非常接近0的时候你就能把活石放到缸里了（这个应该说给在缸外进行活石处理的人），如果你的NO3此时非常高，不要担心，此时你的硝化系统已经很强悍了，反硝化系统在你的活石入缸后也已经开始，给这个系统多些时间，它会做得更好（就是养水时间越长越好）

[ 本帖最后由 corso 于 2008-5-13 09:00 编辑 ]

corso

在来个关于爆藻的，上班时无聊翻的哦错了别拍我

Let's See--we have are tank full of water, sand and rock. Ammonia and nitrites are at zero.Congratulations Newbie-- you've completed the first steps in setting up your tank!!!

Once ammonia is steadily at zero the initial cycle is complete. That is, you have a population of nitrifying bacteria established that can oxidize ammonia to nitrite and nitrate and, in essence, de-toxify this decomposition product. This may have taken anywhere from a week to over a month depending on the type of LR and your method of curing but you have made an important milestone.

Don't get too quick to celebrate. That was only the first half of the game. For the second half you must overcome the ALGAE Blitz!

Now in the first half of the cycle all the dead stuff on the LR decomposed and the developing bacteria hopefully feasted on it. They then converted it to carbon dioxide that then exited the tank as a gas. Carbonaceous compounds are fairly easy to remove as most bacteria live by consuming organic carbon compound. Nitrogen compounds have a more complex natural cycle and, so far, your tank has only succeeded in converting them into a more reef friendly form. Eventually your system will convert nitrate to nitrogen gas and eliminate it as well. This process usually takes awhile as the sand bed plays a crucial role. In a newly established tank conditions are usually not achieved for a couple of weeks after the initial cycle. There are many that contend that de-nitrification, the process of converting nitrate to nitrogen gas, occurs in the pores of the LR. IMO the chief method that LR provides in removing nitrate is through uptake by the coralline algae growing on the rock. Serious reduction of nitrate occurs in the sand bed in the anoxic zones. In the new tank they just haven't had time to properly form

Another thing is now happening. With the supply of decaying organic matter almost depleted many of the bacteria that helped clean things up have nothing left to eat. They in turn die and become a food source. In a well-established tank this decomposition occurs mainly in the sand bed and, indeed, helps de-nitrification and the removal of nitrogen from the tank. In a new tank this new food has nowhere to go except into the water column. Our friend Amanda saw one manifestation of this when she wrote a few days ago:


quote:
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Originally posted by AEALOVESHERGIRLS
Today is day 9 of my tank. Up until now, despite the high trites, trates and ammonia, my water has been clear. But, today it's cloudy and I haven't touched it. Could it be from all the algae in there, I mean, we aren't talking a little algae. It's brown and hairy everywhere. It's driving me nuts that I can't touch it, that I have to wait for the algae to correct it'sself. Any advice would be great!
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I'm not picking on Amanda. It is just that she is starting a new tank and making daily posts on her progress. They sure fit this thread. Wait till Desert Crystal gets some water in her tank.

Amanda did the in-the-tank LR curing method that explains the cloudy water syndrome. Usually there is little organic material, often called Dissolved Organic Material (DOM), in the water column. That means there is little for free swimming "bugs" to eat, so their population is quite low. Following a cycle the water column contains a regular smorgasbord of stuff for bacteria to eat. And eat they do.

WarningThose under 18 (21 in some states) may want to skip the next section as it contains graphic content!!!!

The bacteria in the water column, with plenty to eat, go on a rampage of wanton mitosis. When these little critters get plenty of food, population control goes right out the window. Seeming overnight the water takes on a milky white to gray appearance brought on by this shameless orgy . Just as the bacteria hit their peak, the protozoan's in the tank also get real randy. In full public view they conjugate and reproduce to record numbers but at the expense of the sex crazed bacteria in the tank who these protozoan's now call "dinner". Yes folks it is a sordid affair.

This bacteria bloom happens in all cycles. If you cure your LR outside the tank it may happen but you won't see it like you would in a tank where the LR is cured. The bacteria/protozoan bloom tends to clear up as fast as it appears as these free-swimming "bugs" really go to town and consume all the food PDQ. Once done, they die off only to become food for ensuing organisms.

One can speed up the removal of these bacteria and protozoans by using a polishing filter. One of the handiest items one can have in their bag of tank maintenance items is a canister filter. These fairly inexpensive filters serve in so many handy fashions. With a bacteria bloom you can use a sub-micron filter in them to remove the bacteria, usually in a matter of hours. Then you can replace the sub-micron filter with some activated carbon and remove much of the organic material left behind. With a 200 gph, hang-on canister filter costing less than $50 you really want to have one when you can afford it. When not being used on your main tank it can be used on a quarantine or hospital tank to provide circulation. The sub-micron filters even have a pore size small enough to remove the free swimming stages of parasites such as ich and velvet. A real handy item to have.

The main downside of a bacteria bloom is the little buggers use up tons of oxygen during their heyday. With fish or coral in a tank you want to get them out as fast as possible. If your tank doesn't have livestock then you can wait for it to take its natural course. You also want to check pH and alkalinity after a bacteria bloom. Because these blooms tend to be somewhat acidic in nature you may need to correct the pH using the washing soda additive I mentioned earlier in this thread.

Amanda also has brown "algae" everywhere. This may be algae but in many cases it is diatoms. This occurs shortly after or during the bacteria bloom. I've often wondered why the population of diatoms would soar in the post cycle. I came up with this theory. Much of the die-off on the LR is from encrusting sponges. A sponge uses kind of a silicate skeleton to maintain its shape. After the sponge decays some of this silicate enters the water column where diatoms, who also use silicates to form a type of shell, utilize the excess silicates to reproduce. This causes a diatom bloom stage. This brown algae phase is also usually short, lasting about 5-8 days. Like the bacteria bloom it then disappears almost as suddenly as it started

Don't pat yourself on the back too quickly. The real fun is about to start.

Just about the same time the brown algae starts to recede enters the green algae. At first is appears at the top of the tank nearest the lights but soon in covers just about all your beautiful rock and sand. In general, a tank is about 2-3 weeks old when the green algae hits its peak. How long it will remain at its peak is the hard part to predict. Usually, but not always, a tank that has LR cured in it will have much more green algae over a longer period than a tank that had the LR cured in separate containers. A tank with good lighting will normally have a greater initial growth but the bloom will be shorter in duration than a tank with low lighting.

What鈥檚 a person to do????

Well first off鈥攖he algae gods have not singled you out for a special punishment. Algae Happens!!! No amount of atonement, even sacrificing your first born, is going to make it go away. The best way to deal with it is to give it some time. There are, just like unwanted in-laws who visit, a few things that will shorten its stay.

First off a program of water changes will remove the nutrients the algae needs to grow. During an algae bloom 20% water changes every few days will go a long way in providing nutrient export from the tank. Secondly, get out that scrapper and harvest as much of the stuff as you can. While scrapping run that handy-dandy canister with a polishing filter to help remove algae cells. Third, use the same filter to run activated carbon to remove organic nitrogen and phosphates. Forth, if you have a refugium, add some macro algae to it to compete with the algae in your main tank. Fifth, add a variety of snails to help eat the stuff. If you plan to add hermits crabs this is the time for them too. Sixth, buy and wear a Q-ray bracelet. You can never have too few ions on your side .

Well gang I don't have time for more today. I'll finish up with the algae next time and talk a little about lighting. Take care.

[ 本帖最后由 corso 于 2008-5-13 09:01 编辑 ]

corso

      你看—我们有了一个鱼缸，满是海水、底沙、活石。阿摩尼亚和亚硝酸盐数值是0。恭喜新手哦！你已经完成了开设海缸的第一步咯！
       当初步的水体循环完成后阿摩尼亚已经为0咯，这表示你已经有了足够数量的细菌来把阿摩尼亚氧化成亚硝酸盐和硝酸盐咯。达到以上的过程可能花费了你一个星期或一个多月，这要取决于你的活石质量已经活石的处理程度，但不管怎样，（当达到这个过程）已经是一个好的开始了。
       但不要高兴得太早，这只是游戏开始的一半，在另一半时间里我们将迎来藻类的全面爆发！
在前一段时间中活石上的污染物被分解并造成了缸中细菌的活跃状态，细菌们把这些污染物最终变成了二氧化碳而排放出了缸外。碳化合物是很容易被移出的因为大部分细菌是以它为食的。氮化合物有着更复杂的构成，但别担心，你的海缸已经可以把它们转化为对海水缸更有利的物质了。最后它们会被转化为氮气然后飘掉：）这个转化过程只需要很短的时间，其中底沙有着至关重要的作用。在一个才建立一个多星期的海水缸中，生态系统还未健全。此时出现一个新名词，我们称为反硝化系统的，很多人认为这个系统的转化过程发生在活石的细小空洞中，把硝酸盐转化成为痰气。而我认为主要是由于活石上的珊瑚藻类的生长吸收了水体中的硝酸盐，真正能减少硝酸盐（指把硝酸盐变成氮气）并将数值变成0的是底沙中的缺氧区域。但在新建立的缸中底沙还未能发挥它的作用。
      此时还有另一些事情在发生，随着帮助分解水中污染物的细菌大量得繁殖，最后水体中已经没有多少食物可以供给他们了，他们开始大量死亡并变成了别的生物的食物，在已经成熟的缸里，（这些细菌死去所造成的营养盐）主要由底沙负责反硝化作用并排出缸外。但在新设立的海缸中，（由于没有健全的反硝化系统）这些污染物或营养盐大量存在在水体中，我们的朋友amanda体会到由此产生的后果并写道：
今天是我开缸的第9天，在这之前，我的缸一切都正常，阿摩尼亚等数值也很低，水体非常清澈。但是，今天水非常混浊使得我手足无措，到处都是一种藻类，那是一种小型的，褐色的到处飘的。这快让我疯了，难道我要等待它们自己退去吗？有什么好的建议呢？
      以下都说了产生褐藻然后变绿藻的过程。。大家都知道，没啥好写的拉

[ 本帖最后由 corso 于 2008-5-13 09:02 编辑 ]

leoleestar

看的眼睛很累啊!

corso

我翻得才累呢。。等我编辑下下

hao_de

谢谢分享,翻的不错

七彩鸟

谢谢，楼主辛苦了！

haifish1234

楼主人才啊!!!!

小志

刚看到这篇，支持一下corso兄。

duhaoran

恩，不错，顶一下，让我这个土人也能看明白外国人的水平，谢谢楼主了。

惯吸

楼主高水平~~~~

老今

LZ辛苦了，来学习一下。

xzy1029

学习~~楼主辛苦了~