新整理的美国开缸方法，希望对大家有帮助！

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****文章来自于http://saltwateraquariumhobby.com/saltwater-aquarium-cycling/nitrogen-cycle/

Before we start filling our new aquarium with saltwater and live rock, we first we need to understand the saltwater aquarium cycle, sometimes referred to as the Nitrogen Cycle.
在我们开始往鱼缸里面加盐水和活石的适合，我们首先需要知道盐水鱼缸的周期，确切的说是氮的转换周期。

Understanding the nitrogen cycle will give us an insight into the natural processes that take place within a healthy aquarium.
只有理解了氮的转换周期，我们就可以明白，需要经历这个自然的过程，我的鱼缸才可以变成一个健康的鱼缸。

nitrogen cycle
氮转换周期

The Nitrogen Cycle keeps this aquarium thriving
这个周期可以让鱼缸充满活力。

Hopefully, it will also drive home the importance of the Nitrogen Cycle, and how it is absolutely vital that both Time and Nature are allowed to run their natural course before we start adding our new marine inhabitants.
So What Is The Nitrogen Cycle?
在理解了氨循环的重要性之后，我们才能明白，自然规律是需要时间和自然的方式，当然，在我们往鱼缸里面加入生物之前需要掌握自然的规律，是至关重要的。

Marine fish drink the water in their environment constantly and excrete small amounts of very concentrated urine constantly. Combine this concentrated urine with fecal pellets, multiply that by several fish and throw in a good measure of uneaten, decomposing food into the equation, and we get ammonia.
海洋鱼类不停的在他们的生活环境中摄取水分，当然也会不停的分泌一定数量的浓缩尿液。这些浓缩尿液与他们的便便混合在一起，加上没有吃完的或者未分解的食物，于是，我们的鱼缸就有了氨。
Even 1 ppm (part per million) of ammonia is deadly to fish and corals. 甚至一百万分之一的氨，都会让鱼和珊瑚死掉。

In order for marine fish and corals to survive and thrive in our enclosed aquarium environment, we need to develop and cultivate a healthy population of beneficial bacteria that will neutralize the ammonia.  Breaking down ammonia is necessary for the nitrogen cycle to begin.
为了让海洋鱼类和珊瑚，在封闭的鱼缸环境中生活并且快乐成长，我们需要发展并且培养一定数量的健康的有益菌，这些有益菌将会消化氨。氨的分解是氮循环的第一步。

Once allowed to multiply, these bacteria will populate the hard substrate in the tank, including the live rock, sandbed, tank walls and even the surfaces of powerheads and pumps. If it’s underwater, these bacteria will colonize it.
一旦这个有益菌得到繁殖，他们就会释放一些酶作用物到鱼缸中，包括活石，活沙，鱼缸的墙壁，甚至造浪仪的表面，或泵。他们会在水下不停的繁殖着。

The first group of nitrifying bacteria — the aerobic, oxygen-loving Nitrosomonas — break down the ammonia produced by fish waste into nitrite (No2). Nitrite, while not as lethal as ammonia, is still poisonous to aquatic life.
The second group of oxygen-loving bacteria, Nitrobacter, consume the nitrite and convert it to nitrate (No3). Nitrate is far less harmful to fish and is easily tolerated unless it reaches very high concentrations of 200 ppm or more.
所产生的第一批硝化菌（好氧性亚消化单胞菌）可以将鱼产生的氨分解成亚硝酸盐。尽管亚硝酸盐不像氨有那么强烈地致命性，但是对于鱼缸来说，他仍然是有毒的。

But unlike fish, corals do not tolerate nitrate well. It is recommended that not more than 5ppm of nitrate be present in an aquarium stocked with small-polyped stony corals (SPS), with 20ppm being the upper threshold for large-polyped stony corals (LPS).
和鱼类不一样，珊瑚基本上很难忍受亚硝酸盐。专家建议，在SPS鱼缸中，亚硝酸盐不可以超过百万分之五，在LPS鱼缸中，不可以超过百万分之二十。

If the ammonia in our aquariums were to endlessly convert to nitrate, and if the nitrogen cycle were to stop there, we would soon have a nitrate factory, on our hands.
Not so good.
如果氨在我们的鱼缸中无止境的转换成硝酸盐，如果氮循环将所有的氨，亚硝酸盐全部全换成硝酸盐，并且没有新的氨和亚硝酸盐产生，那么，我们即将就可以建造一个硝酸盐的“工厂”，即使这样，还是不够的。

And this is where denitrifying bacteria come to the rescue. This genera of anaerobic bacteria live within the pores of live rock and deep within the sandbed where oxygen is poor. Denitrifying bacteria reduce nitrate to harmless nitrogen gas which escapes from the aquarium water in the form of gas bubbles, in effect completing the nitrogen cycle.
这样一来，一些反硝化细菌又会过来营救。而那些普通厌氧菌就会生活在氧气缺乏的活石小孔里，和活沙底层。反硝化细菌将会把硝化菌转变为无毒的氮气，以小气泡的形式从鱼缸中释放出来，这样才算完成了一个氮循环。
The nitrogen cycle is Nature’s perfect solution for maintaining a healthy saltwater aquarium!

Which finally brings us to…
The Nitrogen Cycle And How To Properly Cycle Your Saltwater Aquarium
If you’ve read this far, Congratulations.
这就是怎样合理的去循环你的盐水鱼缸，如果你读到了这里，恭喜你，走出了第一步。

It is likely that you will also be patient enough when it comes time to sit through your saltwater aquarium cycle. By now you will have come to realise that the nitrogen cycle is all about the bacteria.
When we cycle a brand new aquarium, all we are doing is giving the different species of bacteria enough time to establish themselves. The aim is to have a large, diverse population of bacteria so that they will be able to complete the nitrogen cycle through all its stages, from ammonia to nitrite and nitrate, and finally, to nitrogen gas.
所以，我们必须要有足够的耐心，让鱼缸来完成这个循环。至此，我们应当明白，氮循环，其实就是一个菌的过程。

Starting the Nitrogen Cycle
开始氮循环
Now for the bad news. it will take a minimum of 4 weeks to cycle your tank and to establish the nitrogen cycle. And that is only if you are using fully cured live rock.
坏消息是，这将会需要至少4周的时间去循环并且建立氮循环。前提是，这些是已经处理过的活石！！！
I usually shoot for a full 6 weeks of cycling when using semi-cured live rock. But in any case, more weeks is always better.
如果是干的活石，我通常认为，需要至少6周的时间，当然，多几周的适应期，总是最好的。

And now for more bad news — no livestock should be in your tank during the cycling process. No fish, corals, shrimp.. nothing.
And please do not use live fish to cycle your saltwater aquarium!  Fishless aquarium cycling is not only humane, but is just as effective.
I started my very first saltwater aquarium in 2005 and cycled it with two yellow-tail damsels. A bad idea. The conventional wisdom at the time, supported with some very bad advice from my local fish shop, was to use a hardy fish or two to start the nitrogen cycle and see it through to completion. If they survived. One of my yellow-tail damsels died within a day. The other damsel, Bluey, I am happy to report is very much alive, plump and happy today, in November 2011.
还有一个坏消息是，在这个周期里面，不能放入任何的生物！！！，不能有鱼，珊瑚，虾，什么都不可以有！！！
也请不要用鱼来循环你的海水鱼缸，没有鱼的循环鱼缸，不仅仅是因为人道主义，更因为那样才是最有效的。
我曾在2005，用两条黄尾雀鲷来开始循环我的盐水鱼缸。非常糟糕的主义。这个在当时被公认为传统的开缸建议是我当地的鱼店给我的，他们认为用一条或者两条好养活的鱼来开始氮循环，来观察开缸的效果。结果，一条黄尾在第一天就死掉了，幸运的是，另外一条到目前为止，（2011年11月）仍然快乐的生活着。

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With new tanks I fill them up with pure reverse osmosis (RO) or de-ionized (DI) water and add salt right into the aquarium to a Specific Gravity of between 1.022 to 1.025. The powerheads will dissolve the salt which will take anywhere from a few hours to a full day depending on the size of your tank.
Some aquarists use dechlorinated tapwater for the cycling phase. I disagree, as nitrates and phosphates present in tapwater, will lead to serious algae bloom problems during cycling.
After the salt has dissolved fully, add the sandbed. If you can get a handful of ‘live sand’ from a disease-free, well-established saltwater aquarium, so much the better. Scatter this live sand over your new, ‘not-yet-live’ sandbed and you’ve just helped with a population explosion of beneficial bacteria and miscellaneous microorganisms. Always a good thing!
对于新的鱼缸，我们需要加入RO或者RODI的水，加入盐使其比重达到1.022和1.025之间。造浪仪可以将这些盐溶解，一般需要几个小时到一天的时间，具体的取决于鱼缸的大小。很多鱼友会使用脱氨的自来水。我是坚决反对的。因为硝酸盐和磷酸盐已经存在于自来水中，他们将会导致循环中的严重爆藻。坚决不要使用除氨自来水！！！这是很多国内鱼友的盲区！！！
当盐水完全溶解之后加入沙床。如果你能有一些没有疾病，从成熟的鱼缸中取出来的活沙，那就再好不过了。将这些活沙均匀的洒在沙床上，可以帮助繁殖有益菌和微生物。 这总是最好不过了。
***个人建议，原则上，用别人的活沙是增加有益菌，但是国内很多鱼友的开缸方式，导致他们沙床里面埋藏了太多太多的有益无益的菌种，采用他们的活沙，无疑就是加入了他们的菌种，对开缸是绝对无益的。本人是建议加入
活硝化菌，每50加仑的水用一小瓶。图片之后添加。

After we’ve added the sand — and once the dust has more or less settled — we can go ahead and add the live rock and try our hand at aquascaping.
Let Live Rock Do Its Thing!
I’ve always cycled my aquariums with cured or semi-cured live rock. Dead rock, which has been left out of water for many weeks and left to dry out completely, will take a very long time to become ‘live’, and will drag the cycling process on longer than it needs to.
With semi-cured live rock, some organisms on and within the rock will die-off producing ammonia. This is good as it kick-starts the beginning of the nitrogen cycle.
Nitrifying bacteria will start to populate every inch of the tank, while denitrifying bacteria will multiply within the pores of the live rock and spread into the sandbed.
Using Bottled Bacteria Starters To Kick-Start The Nitrogen Cycle
There are a number of commercially available bacteria starter formulations to help establish the initial population of available nitrifying and denitrifying bacteria, especially if live sand and live rock are not available.  These formulations are also useful for adding to the diversity of the bacterial populations in established aquariums.
在我们加入沙之后，当沙慢慢沉淀，我们就可以加入活石，然后摆放我们自己的形状。
接下来，就让活石做他自己的工作吧！
我总是用已经活化的活石或者半活化的活石。死石，就是那些完全干了的，或者已经从水里取出有几周的时间了。这些死石将会需要更长的时间使其变为活石，同时也会延长整个周期。
对于一些半活化的活石，活石上面或者里面的一些生物体都会在氨的作用下死去，当然也是一个好的开始。
硝化菌将会开始繁殖满整个鱼缸，同时反硝化菌将会在活石的小孔和沙床深处繁殖。
用小瓶的活化菌来开始整个氮循环。
市面上有很多活化菌的制剂，这些制剂可以帮助建立最初的硝化菌和反硝化菌，特别是活石和活沙里面没有这些菌。这些制剂对于成熟的鱼缸，也是有增加多样性的菌群的效果。

The First Week
With the live rock, sand and saltwater in the tank, your Nitrogen Cycle will have officially begun. A small amount of ammonia can be introduced to the tank at this time, although this is really optional, given the natural die-off from the live rock.
Most aquarists get a small shrimp from the fishmongers and throw into the tank. The ammonia produced by the decomposing shrimp will kick-start the nitrogen cycle in a big way.
A few aquarists have even been known to use their own urine as an ammonia source. Having never done this myself, I cannot give you the exact quantity to use, relative to the size of your tank! I would stick with the shrimp to start the nitrogen cycle.
Let the tank run with all return pumps, powerheads and protein skimmer on. The skimmer may or may not produce skimmate during this time. My experience with some models is that they will skim off fine sand particles floating in the water column after the sandbed was laid. It may also start skimming dark skimmate, depending on the amount of die-off from the semi-cured live rock.
If you spot any unwanted hitchikers emerging from your live rock — mantis shrimp, large bristle worms or fireworms, you might want to trap and remove them. They could pose a problem later on, eating your coral or attacking your fish! But let friendly hitchhikers such as tiny worms or starfish be. If they survive the nitrogen cycle they will add interesting bio-diversity to your tank.
Aquarium lights should be turned off during cycling. Different species of diatom algae will bloom and recede during the cycling process, with one superceding the next. Turning on the aquarium lights at this time will encourage photosynthesis, intensifying each algae bloom.
We also don’t want to kill off our friendly bacteria with cold or excess heat while they are trying to gain a foothold. You can leave the chiller off but make sure the temperature doesn’t rise above 30 degrees Celsius. You will need to turn the aquarium heater on if the temperature tends to drop below 24 degrees Celsius.
By Day 3 of the first week you should be seeing measurable amounts of ammonia when you test, a clear signal that the nitrogen cycle has begun.
第一周
你的氮循环正式开始于鱼缸里面的活石，活沙，和盐水。同时，少量的氨可以在这时加入鱼缸，这个可以做，也可以不做，这步骤是用来去除原来活石中的生物体。
多数鱼友会加入一个小虾进入鱼缸。分解小虾可以产生氨，氨的产生就是氮循环的第一步。
有极少数的鱼友会用自己的尿液作为氨的源泉，当然，我自己肯定没有尝试过，所以我也不能给你们建议到底应当放入多少的量。所以我还是会坚持用虾这个方法。
现在，打开回流泵，造浪，和蛋分。这时候，蛋分可能可以，也可能不可以产生分离物。我的经验就是，一些型号的蛋分可以帮助撇去沙的微粒。
如果你看到你的活石里面有些不速之客，比如螳螂虾，大蠕虫，或者火蠕虫， 那么你就需要把他们移掉。 他们可以在将来制造很多的麻烦，比如吃掉你的珊瑚，袭击你的宝贝鱼。 当然，一些友善的客人可以让他们留下来，比如小蠕虫，海星。如果他们能在氮循环中存活下来，他们也会增加你鱼缸的生物多样性。
在整个循环过程中，鱼缸的灯需要保持关闭状态。 此时，不同种类的硅藻将会在这个过程中大量繁殖或者减弱。如果我们此时打开了灯，光合作用将会加强各个菌种的爆发。（国内鱼友爆藻的时候，就能看到很多很多本不需要的藻类，在此时爆发，即使通过清理，但是这些藻类仍然潜藏在沙床中，对于将来无异于是一个定时炸弹）
我们当然也不想杀用过冷或过热的水温去杀死这些开始驻足的有益菌。 如果鱼缸超过30C，我们就要打开制冷机，如果鱼缸水温低于24C，我们就要打开加热棒。
第一周的第三天， 你应当可以测量到少数的氨，那就意味着你的氮循环开始了。

The Second Week
Ammonia will continue to rise in the second week and peak at around Day 10, after which it will slowly start to decline. By this time, the water may take on a slightly cloudy appearance and an unpleasant smell may also be detected.
At the start of the second week, nitrite should be measurable and will start to climb. This is a good sign as it shows that the bacteria are doing their job and the nitrogen cycle is progressing.
If you’re using fully cured live rock, there is a possibility that you will not see get any ammonia readings at all. Lots of cured live rock can form an instant living and all you might measure is a small amount of nitrite at the start of the second week. But again every tank is different and you should be testing for ammonia and nitrite every two or three days during the second week.
If you’re a very detailed person and you care to test every day, you might get hold of some graph paper and do a chart with a timeline and ammonia and nitrite readings in ppm over the course of 30 days.
第二周
在第二周，氨会继续增加，在第十天达到顶峰值。之后，就开始慢慢的减弱。这时候，水面开始出现轻微的浑浊，同时也会出现一些不好的气味。
在第二周开始的时候，亚硝酸盐就开始可以测得出来了，然后数值开始慢慢上升。这是一个很好的信号，意味着鱼缸中的菌开始发挥他们的作用，氮循环也正在进行着。
如果你用的是成熟的活化活石，有可能你不会看到任何的氨。很多的活化活石都是采用活化生物过滤，所以，你可能只能在第二周测到一点点的亚硝酸盐。当然，每一个鱼缸都是不同的，你应当每两天或者每三天测量氨和亚硝酸盐含量。
如果你是一个非常细心的人，你可以每天都进行测量，你可以用时间轴制成一个图标来显示鱼缸中氨和亚硝酸盐的含量。

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The Third Week
By Day 21, ammonia would have tapered off to nearly zero. Nitrite will peak by Day 26 and at the end of the third week and will have started its gradual decline.
The third week is when the patience of most people is truly tested. You have been looking at an empty tank filled with nothing but saltwater and rocks. But I must ask you to resist the urge to go out and buy a couple of fish at this point.
Remember, although our ammonia levels have dropped, nitrite is deadly to fish and other livestock!
第三周
第21天，氨的含量逐渐变小，并且接近于零。亚硝酸盐在第26日达到顶峰值，在第三周的最后几日，可以观察到亚硝酸盐逐渐减弱的趋势。
第三周是很多人忍耐力的极限。你只能观测一个只有盐水和石头，其他空空如也的鱼缸。 但是，此时，我必须制止你的强烈欲望去买两条鱼。
记住，尽管我的氨含量已经降低了，但是亚硝酸盐对鱼和其他生物仍然是致命的。

The Fourth Week
Nitrates will be measurable by Day 28 of the cycling process. You’re also likely to get a bloom of brown diatom algae, fueled by the nitrates and the ambient light from outside the tank! No reason to panic, as this diatom bloom usually fades away after a week of appearing.
第四周
第28天，硝酸盐将被测量出来。你的鱼缸也极有可能出现很多褐藻。这些褐藻在硝酸盐和鱼缸外部的自然灯光的作用下，正常繁殖。不需要惊慌，褐藻将会在一周之后慢慢褪掉。

The Fifth Week
By Day 35, nitrite concentrations would have become unmeasurable on your test kit. Nitrates will continue to rise but to low levels of 2 – 5 ppm.
You might want to do a 25% water change once nitrate is detectable and ammonia and nitrite are both zero.
第五周
第35天，亚硝酸的含量已经变得从试纸上无法读取了，但是亚硝酸盐会仍然保持增长，但是会低至百万分之二或者五的水平。
当你的硝酸盐已经被测出，同时氨和亚硝酸盐同时都已经变成0了，那么，此时你可能需要进行一次换水，换水量需达到1/4。（***记住，整个过程中，是不能换水的）


It is only at this point, and after you’ve done one final check for ammonia and nitrite, that you can start stocking your tank slowly.
And if you happen notice brand-new specks of pink coralline algae on you aquarium glass, this is an excellent indicator that your tank has fully cycled and is ready to receive its first few aquarium inhabitants. Now would be a good time to add your reef cleanup crew — hermit crabs, shrimp and snails.
But go easy on adding fish at first. It’s a good idea to add just two fish as a start and see how everything goes for one week. Feed as normal, but be careful not to overfeed. Your first few fish will add to the bioload in your new tank and increase the population of bacteria further, as they try to cope with the increased amount of waste.
Adding too many fish too soon will overwhelm the bacteria and what they can digest, creating a recurrence in ammonia — an ammonia spike — and you will be back to square one of cycling your tank. Although we have a good population of bacteria already, we need to allow them to multiply even further to meet the biological demands of our new fish.
只有在这个时候，在你最后确认你的氨和亚硝酸盐都已经稳定的为0时，你才可以开始加入鱼和珊瑚。
此时，如果你发现鱼缸玻璃上面有一些新的，粉红色珊瑚状的版块，那么这就是一个绝佳的信号，你的鱼缸已经完全循环好了，可以开始接收第一个新移民了。现在，最好先加入鱼缸的清理小组——寄居蟹，虾，海蜗牛等。
但是，最简单的就是加入鱼。最好的方法就是先加入两条鱼，之后观察鱼一周的活动状态。正常喂食，千万小心，不能喂的太多。你最初的这几条鱼，将会增加你鱼缸的生物负担，同时也会增加菌的数量，当然，他们也会制造更多数量的便尿。
如果一时间加入太多数量的鱼，那么鱼缸内的菌群就会不堪重负，继而，又会重新产生氨。于是，你就又不得不继续重新开始这个循环了。尽管我们已经有了一定数量的菌群，但是我们需要等待菌群繁殖，知道菌群的负荷量可以达到加新鱼的程度。

Some aquarists also add some corals at this time. If nitrate is low enough, you can even start stocking large-polyp stony (LPS) corals, or even the more demanding small-polyped stony (SPS) corals at this time.
It should be noted that both corals and invertebrates do not contribute to the bioload as much as fish, as far producing waste. But proceed stocking them with care in any case.
Add two fish per week over the next few weeks, or until your ideal fish population is reached.
I have started ‘instantly cycled’ saltwater aquariums before, using saltwater, live rock, live sand and filter sponges, all from another established tank. It requires that less than an hour elapses between the time the biological filter leaves the established aquarium, is transported in the same tank water, and gets placed into the new aquarium. It also requires that most of the water, about 30% of it, is from an established aquarium and is not entirely newly mixed saltwater.
This method establishes the biological filter and the nitrogen cycle immediately but is more suited to an experienced aquarist, or someone who will be able to transfer his livestock back into another established aquarium should trouble arise.
Using Phosphate Remover During Cycling
Placing phosphate remover in a bag placed in an area of moderate water flow, or running a phosphate reactor during cycling is a very good idea and something that should be done by more saltwater aquarium keepers.
As small organisms die off within your cured or semi-cured live rock during the cycling process, phosphates are released into the water.
Along with nitrates, phosphates are a huge culprit as far as algae blooms. In fact, phosphates are the leading cause of sudden algae blooms in established tanks, especially the unsightly and difficult-to-remove variety of algae that covers all your live rock in a layer of vivid green.
很多鱼友也会在此时加入一些珊瑚。如果硝酸亚足够低的话，你甚至可以开始LPS，或者更有挑战性的SPS。
不得不提的是，珊瑚和无脊椎动物在制造废料垃圾方面，是不能和鱼相提并论的。每增加一些珊瑚，都需要非常小心。
每周加两条鱼，直到达到你理想的鱼群数量。
我曾经弄过一个鱼缸，用的都是已经循环好的盐水，活沙，活石和过滤海绵，全部都是从另外一个成熟的鱼缸转移过来的。那么，这就必须有严格的时间要求，意味着我们只有半个小时的时间从成熟鱼缸转移到新鱼缸。在转移成熟鱼缸的盐水的时候，需要加入原来盐水，至新缸的三分之一，而不是全部都是用新的盐水。
这个方法即刻可以建立生物过滤和氮循环。但是这个方法更适合于有经验的鱼友们。如果他们要把生物转移到另外另外一个成熟鱼缸，将会带来很多的麻烦。
在循环中使用设备来移除磷酸盐
将磷酸盐反应物放入一个小袋中置于有水流经过的区域，或者只用磷酸盐反应仪也是一个不错的选择，很多的鱼友都是那么做的。
因为一个小的生物体在循环过程中死掉，磷酸盐因此就会释放到水中。和硝酸盐一样，磷酸盐也是爆藻的一个罪魁祸首。事实上，磷酸盐也是成熟鱼缸突然爆藻的主要元凶。特别是一些难看的，难移除的藻类将会覆盖在活石上，形成一层层的绿色。
Using a phosphate remover during the cycle, and on a permanent basis thereafter, ensures that no unexpected algae blooms will ever occur in your saltwater aquarium.
One Final Word
Once again, if you are going to have any success in this hobby, and for the sake of your aquarium inhabitants, please take the time to cycle your aquarium.  I cannot emphasize enough that patience, and the help of our all-important ally the nitrogen cycle, is the key to establishing a beautiful saltwater aquarium.
在循环中去除磷酸盐，对于将来来说，这是一个基础。同时也确保了那些讨厌的爆藻现象将不会出现在你的海水鱼缸中。
最后，再一次强调，如果你想要在这个爱好中取得成功，并且从你的鱼缸中获益，请耐心的循环你的鱼缸。最后强调，氮循环是一个重要的基础去建立一个漂亮的海水鱼缸。

maggie96521

响应一些鱼友的请求，我新整理了，这边鱼友的开缸指南。
其实这边很多的鱼友，都有超过30年的养海水鱼的经验，他们的经验其实也是在各种失败中总结出来的，不能说，这边的东西都是对的，都是好的。大家取精除糟吧！
我唯一能给国内鱼友的就是：
一定要要用RODI的水在做盐水，千万不会用除氨的自来水
因为开缸的方式不一样，所以，国内很多的鱼缸无法使用Bipellets来讲解硝酸盐。Biopellets可以辅助蛋分来讲解硝酸盐，但是他同时也会增加菌群数量的繁殖。国内的开缸方法，注定会在活石和活沙中存留很多的好的坏得菌种，那样反倒越来越麻烦。
磷酸盐反应仪，其实等于GFO反应仪，我本人是使用碳和GFO的反应仪，可以移除水中的异味，磷酸盐，使水体澄清。
在循环过程中，时常测量氨和亚硝酸盐和硝酸盐，那样，我们就可以及时知道，我们的循环，目前是处于哪个阶段，并且可以更有效的针对该阶段，做出回应。
还有就是耐心吧，捷径谁不想要，但是为了将来的持续发展，有效的控制菌群的数量和种类，难道还需要我再强调他的重要性吗？

《傻神》

好文章，好翻译

不想上岸

真不容易，翻译这么多

maggie96521

snoopyray 发表于 2015-11-20 08:09
避光是不是把缸全部遮盖住？

不用那么严格的，所谓避光，就是避免窗户射进来的阳光。

maggie96521

精灵阿凡达 发表于 2015-11-19 22:11
煮石原理：  并非真正的沸水开锅煮它。是营造一个恒温的全黑暗的环境并加上氧气及造流（温度要求在25-35度 ...

听上去不是一个方法了，首先我这边没有第二次煮石的说法，石头放下去就不会移动了，而且全程不需要换水，这边开缸就是养菌，等到有益菌繁殖到一定量，里面的氨，亚硝酸盐就会降为0，如果配合你所说的植物法，就可以更有效的去除硝酸盐了。等到氨和亚硝酸盐将为0，就可以换水，一次换1/4就好，不能全部换完的，水如果全部换完，菌就白养了。

夏洛特

好文章，力挺

maggie96521

namelessxr 发表于 2016-2-18 18:41
才看到，真是幸苦了，整理的这么多这么详细。其实和国内的方法非常类似。至于为什么国内要开灯爆藻，我总结 ...

你说的也很有道理，前几天有位大神帮助我解决了我的疑问，开缸的方式其实还取决于活石的品种。那位大神告诉我，国内的活石多数是海底炸出来的石头，而我们用的活石其实是鱼商们养好的死珊瑚骨，珊瑚骨的天然镂空的结构，可以给硝化菌提供非常多的附着空间，一旦硝化细菌的数量达到一定程度，就是天然的过滤环境了。而石头的最大缺陷自然也是结构上不能附着太多的硝化菌，所以需要大量的藻类来消化，您觉得我说的有没有道理？之前有个鱼友一直跟我钻牛角尖，说我的活石从海里捞的，其实真不是，就是死掉的大型珊瑚骨，鱼商加硝化菌重新养过的，所以我们买的活石如果中间不要耽搁太久，就是可以直接下生物的，不需要养水，鱼商们进货后，必须自己养水几周后才拿出来卖的，他们还会做处理，把里面的生物去除，当然，最忧伤的就是价格了。也有很多这边的鱼友，买死珊瑚骨自己养水，价格可以减半。附两张图片，中间的是汤加活石，背后的是斐济活石

namelessxr

才看到，真是幸苦了，整理的这么多这么详细。其实和国内的方法非常类似。至于为什么国内要开灯爆藻，我总结了两个原因：
一个是国内活石颜色普遍发黑发绿，不存在长藻了颜色变差。
另一个就是藻类大量的吸收NO3，普遍流行的理论是，开缸不仅仅是要氨和亚硝酸盐没有了，硝酸盐也要严格控制。硝酸盐降低最有效的就是靠藻类去吸收。而且很多不喜欢底沙，认为底沙沉积垃圾而且在分解过程中产生有毒物质，一旦翻动会导致水质急剧波动。所以反消化细菌不多，ATS和藻缸也应运而生。
藻类繁殖吸收NO3很有效，但它的一个副作用是也会吸收大量微量元素，所以需要经常换水来补充。这也是国内需要经常换水的原因。
至于换水导致了菌类减少我倒是觉得仁者见仁，智者见智。毕竟还是有大量的菌是吸附在固体表面。

精灵阿凡达

终于等来了，先顶再慢慢学习

myfeel

给个赞、·~~~~~~~！！

上帝欠我钱

学习了，谢谢楼主的翻译，楼主辛苦了

tht7916

整个过程 不开灯？

天宝斋

这个很给力

再見。舊時光。

开缸就跟咱们说的煮石一个道理吧。

onlyco

收藏学习！

syskypk

真有心。:)

1251590

楼主辛苦第一时间就看到了谢谢

maggie96521

tht7916 发表于 2015-11-18 20:23
整个过程 不开灯？

嗯，其实这个循环过程中，有的菌种会增加，有的会减少，但是如果一旦开灯，所有的都增加了，这就是我们不建议开灯的原因

maggie96521

1251590 发表于 2015-11-19 00:52
楼主辛苦第一时间就看到了谢谢

不客气啊！之前本来很想整理一份常见疾病的症状和治疗的，但是实在太长了，以后有机会吧

哼哼

学习了~~~向楼主致敬~~同时觉得要学好英文 哈哈~~~

snoopyray

maggie96521 发表于 2015-11-19 11:41
嗯，其实这个循环过程中，有的菌种会增加，有的会减少，但是如果一旦开灯，所有的都增加了，这就是我们不 ...

这个过程要开蛋分吗？只用一个上水泵循环是不是更好？

精灵阿凡达

煮石原理：  并非真正的沸水开锅煮它。是营造一个恒温的全黑暗的环境并加上氧气及造流（温度要求在25-35度左右，细菌能有效大量繁殖的温度最佳），让细菌处理死了的生物尸体组织最终转为溶于水的营养盐，利用流动的水加快石头内部与外部水体的营养盐平衡，再靠多次全换水排除营养盐（每2周全换一次水），最终达到彻底净化，每次换水前必须测试NO2,NO3,PO4，直到全部营养盐数据为无颜色后，再煮一次即可（注意：如果用自来水开盐煮石的，兑盐前须要测试自来水的NO2、NO3、PO4数据，并记录下来，要保证每次煮石后全换水前最低数据要和自来水兑盐前数据持平或更低，最后一次的煮石建议使用RO水，更能保证数据的准确和彻底净化）。黑暗环境，是饿死一切藻类，藻类组织溶于水后被换走，但藻类种子是不会被饿死的，所以鱼缸在以后的维护不当时，还会出藻，强烈建议配合上植物系统，比如：ATS系统，有效压抑主缸藻类。--出自精华帖《海贼刀疤钊》

maggie96521

snoopyray 发表于 2015-11-19 16:36
这个过程要开蛋分吗？只用一个上水泵循环是不是更好？

这个时候是不需要蛋分的，只有上水循环。